Maloja - L'Äla
I did this hike on the 30th of October, 2026. It was the second of three days hiking in Engadin and around the Bernina Pass, tryng to catch some autumn colors and golden larches. I was once before in Maloja, while doing a two day hike to Maloja and up to Lej Nair. I was though never here in autumn, so I was looking forward to this hike. I had made the hike in a way, so I would both visit two lakes, and also get some panoramic views from the top of L’Äla.
Full route: Swisstopo
I was staying in Samedan during my long weekend, so I started the morning by taking a train to St. Moritz from where I caught the direct bus to Maloja and the start of the hike. It was a cold but beautiful morning as I followed the road out of Maloja and crossed the dam over the river Orlegna. My first goal of the day was Lägh da Bitabergh, which was only a short walk and ascent away from the dam.
I had started the hike early, and was therefore completely alone as I reached the lake. The sun had just gotten high enough on the sky to send the first light over the area, and the larch trees were shining in their golden colors. Part of the lake was frosen and as there were no wind, it made for beautiful reflections. I walked around the lake and enjoyed the quiet and calmness of the day before continuing.
From the lake, I took the hiking trail leading up above the lake. As this area was in the shade, there was still snow on the trail and in parts also ice, so I was glad I had taken my micro spikes with me. The trail was not too steep, and as I made my way up above the lake, I had great views into Val Maroz and over Silsersee and the mountains around.
Reaching the top, I took a small break by a viewpoint. I could see relatively far into Val Bregaglia, a valley I still haven’t been able to explore, but which I would like to visit and hike in. As I continued from the viewpoint in direction Lägh da Cavloc, I walked through another area with snow, but as the trail here was mainly flat, it was no problem.
As the trail entered Val dal Forn, I was met by the warmth of the sun, which was very nice after the longer walk in the shade. Val dal Forn with lake Cavloc is really beautiful, and before following the trail down to the lake, I took a small detour a bit higher up to get a broad overview of the area. Although the larch trees were starting to fade, the colors were still beautiful, only amplified even more by the sun.
I walked down to the lake and took a longer break in the sun. There were not many people by the lake as it was still early, so I could enjoy the calmness and surroundings in my own pace. I followed the trail around the lake, which for the second half takes you through a denser vegetated area with beautiful viewpoints, both above and close to the lake.
On the other side of the lake, I followed the trail leading me down towards the river I had crossed over in the morning. The trail was in the beginning narrow and steep at times, but soon turned into a wide gravel road which I followed the rest of the way down. As I reached the river, I crossed over a bridge and started the ascent to the top of L’Äla.
The walk up was really lovely, going through denser larch tree forest and more open areas with amazing views. The snow covered mountain peaks, brown autumn colors and golden larches were beautiful, and I am surely coming back to this area again for more hiking next year.
As I got closer to the top, the vegetation got more sparse, and I was happy when I reached the plateau and could see the top. The last part up was short and easy, and although there were other people at the top ,there was enough space to enjoy the views and quiet.
During a hike, I always enjoy when I can look back and see larger parts of the areas I have been walking through. From the top of L’Äla, I could see down to lake Cavloc and the trail leading to the lake where I had walked just a few hours before. From the top, I also had even better views over Silsersee, Silvaplanersee and the area around St. Moritz, which I would hike the following day.
After a long break and some lunch, I started the descent. The trail down was not steep and generally easy, which was nice, as it made it easier to enjoy the views over the lake. After half an hour walking in the open landscape, I followed the trail into the forest in direction Silsersee. As I reached the lake, I took another short break to enjoy the calmness and colors of the landscape, before continuing the last kilometers back to Maloja.
From the lake, I followed the road back into Maloja. I first walked on the road along the lake and then followed the trail going through the middle of the city towards the bus station. Arriving back where I had started in the morning, I took the bus back to St. Moritz and from there made my way back to Samedan, where I would stay another night.
